Mixed identities in Upper Silesia
2.1.2004 - Jacek Trela

The constant shifting of Silesia across Polish and German borders over several centuries has created a unique ethnic mix and a regional self-consciousness. The dominant spoken language is a Germanised dialect of Polish. But whatever their ethnic origins, the Silesians themselves have developed a separate identity that borrows liberally from both Polish and German.

Around 180 thousand people in the Upper Silesian province of Opole, southern Poland declare they are ethnic Germans. Over the past 60 years or so the group has survived the downfall of the Third Reich, post-war expulsions and discrimination under communism... because of their ethnicity. But after the fall of communism in 1989, they were able to express their long pent-up feelings of national identity.

Ethnic German revival in the Opole province has led to the opening of the Social and Cultural Association of Germans in Upper Silesia. It groups numerous urban and rural chapters of German unions. Zuzanna Donat Kasiura of the German Association's office in the locality of Gogolin is proud to stress that ethnic Germans hold many provincial offices and parliamentary seats, so they are able to resolve their own problems. She explains what national and regional identity means to Silesian Germans:

"We are Silesians but we are also Germans. A Bavarian, when asked, says he is a German but he lives in Bavaria, which is his homeland - his Heimat. Then comes Germans - the Fatherland. Like for Bavarians, Germany is also our fatherland but Silesia is our homeland - close to our hearts".

Silesia is also close to the hearts of the non-ethnic Germans of Silesia too. Quite many of them, disappointed with the slow pace of economic improvement and arrogance - they say - of the ruling elite in Warsaw are demanding that Upper Silesia be granted autonomy just like some other provinces in the European Union. Twenty-seven year old Bartlomiej Swiderek of the Movement for Silesian Autonomy, set up in 1991, says in a recent regional census the Movement was given proof of support by over 170 thousand local people, who declared they were neither German nor Polish but Silesian.

"It's not any succession, it's not any struggle for national or ethnic purity of the region. What we want to achieve is the welfare of the people who live here in the region".

Like his German Silesian neighbours, Bartlomiej Swiderek says the love of tradition, the Silesian tongue and family bonds are the main components of his regional identity. But what exactly is the difference today between the two communities, which share the same turbulent history, and the same homeland? A leading sociologist from the Opole University Danuta Berlinska explains:

"German Silesians are a well organized group and German identity is used in public life to demand some rights. Silesians identity is private identity realized on the level of community. We have now multiple identities. People can acquire different cultural codes or core values and they can identify it with different cultures and different ethnic groups".

History has left a residue of prejudice - even today, some local people, chiefly immigrants from other parts of Poland, resent ethnic German revival on Polish soil. But these 9-year old Silesians girls, who sing in their native language, have no quarrel with any nation. They simply know that there are good and bad people in this world.

Building borders, opening borders...
2.1.2004 - Katarina Richterova

Just over 11 years ago, on December 31 1992, At midnight on December 31 1992, the Czechoslovak federation was formally dissolved and two independent states - the Czech Republic and Slovakia - came into being. Creating Europe's newest border. Since then, the two have moved in different directions. But when they become a part of the European Union and after that the Schengen zone, their citizens will once again travel freely between the two states as they did 11 years ago. What does this mean to Slovaks and Czechs?

It's the middle of the week, approximately noon and at the border between Slovakia and the Czech republic I see long queues of cars and trucks. After 1993 when Czechoslovakia separated, people had to get used to the fact that on their way to the "brotherly state" not only did they have to stop and wait at a border, but also actually they were entering a different state. This is how people at the border view the borderline between the two states:

PERSON 1: "Right now when I am crossing the border, it's very common for me, it's not as strange as at the beginning. I remember few years ago crossing the border with your passport in the pocket, it was pretty strange. But now crossing the border is a habit, so no problem."

PERSON 2: "I'm still not used to the fact that I have to wait at the border when I go to Prague or Brno, for example."

PERSON 3: "It wasn't necessary to build the border. Anyway, if we enter the EU next year, there will be no more border."

These days you never know how long your journey to the Czech republic will take, because you never know how long you will have to wait at the border. On the topic of the border shock spoke also Michal Vasecka from the Institute for public affairs.

"People already got used to the fact that there is a border between the Czech republic and Slovakia. It was very difficult for many to get used to the fact that there is a line. Many people of the former Czechoslovakia have family members and definitely many friends on both sides. And suddenly this kind of border separated something what 11 years ago many thought was inseparable."

Despite the separation Slovakia and the Czech republic have continued to have "above standard", or 'special relations'. As such Czech and Slovak citizens only need to show their identity cards - rather than a passport - when leaving or entering at the border. Many take advantage of this. Again people at the border:

PERSON 1: "Using the identity card when crossing the border is a great idea. It shows that this is not the typical kind of border, that the relationship between the countries is a little bit different, friendlier. And it definitely takes less time and is less complicated."

The border that separates Slovaks from their Czech neighbours will relax even more after the two countries enter the European Union in May next year - as Jaroslav Grandic, deputy at the customs office at the Breclav highway explains:

"The check of documents won't be done by the custom officers, but by foreign and border police. After signing the Schengen agreement not even this sort of control will be present, only occasional inspections will be carried out. I believe free movement should be possible in three years time, at the most. A radical change will happen to freight services, trucks won't have to declare their goods at the border and so the trucks will only be passing the border, with no waiting at all."

After becoming a part of the Schengen zone the long hours of waiting for cars and trucks will diminish, but will the feeling of reunification come back? Michal Vasecka explains:

"People still feel that this border is only temporary and in the future European Union, more or less the situation will be like in the former Czechoslovakia."

How the relationship between Slovakia and the Czech republic will change after the two countries enter the EU and how their "above standard relationship" will develop, only May 2004 will show. One thing is for sure; the technical side of EU entry should be beneficial for us, ordinary citizens, who at present blame the state borders for slowing us down.

Prussian past, EU present: the "German" Czechs of Hlucin
2.1.2004 - Rob Cameron

And now, as part of our series on Central Europe's borders, we travel to the north-eastern corner of the Czech Republic, and the area surrounding the little town of Hlucin. It's a fascinating place, an ethnic melting pot of Czechs, Germans and Poles, with its own customs and its own curious dialect. And due to the dramatic developments of the 20th century, many of its inhabitants now enjoy some very special privileges. Radio Prague's Rob Cameron reports.

This is Josef Krettek, a sprightly man in his early eighties. He's showing his grandson Lukas photos of him taken when he was a soldier during the Second World War.

But the photograph shows Josef Krettek - who is Czech - wearing the uniform of the German Army, the Wehrmacht. He's a living testimony to the region's complex and often hard to explain past.

Josef Krettek: "I was born in 1922, here in this village near Hlucin. I had Czech nationality, I went to a Czech school, we spoke Czech at home. But when Germany seized the Hlucin area from Czechoslovakia in 1938, we automatically became German citizens. And when the war started, I joined the Wehrmacht."

Hitler's claim to the Hlucin area was based on historic, rather than ethnic criteria. For almost two hundred years, the area - part of the much larger region of Silesia - belonged to Prussia. The people who lived here were mostly Czech, but they felt a strong sense of allegiance to their Prussian rulers, largely due to the prosperity they experienced in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Then came the First World War. Prussia was dismantled. Silesia was divided between Germany and Poland. But a small part of it - the area around Hlucin - was given to Czechoslovakia. Many people here were far from happy - even though they were Czech, their loyalty was to Prussia, not Prague. And so 20 years later, when German soldiers marched into Hlucin in October 1938, many local inhabitants came out to greet them.

The war of course put an end to that - the area of Hlucin was snatched back from Germany after 1945. But sixty years on, people here are once again turning to Berlin to improve their circumstances.

Lukas Krettek's grandson Lukas: "...all his children are automatically German too, so I'm German, my two brothers and sister too, but not my mother - she's still Czech..." Because Josef was a fully-fledged German citizen, today his children and grandchildren are also entitled to German citizenship. Lukas, a 27-year-old economics graduate, now has a German passport:

Lukas Krettek: "I was several times in Germany, during my holidays when I was studying. So during the holidays I was maybe three or four times in Germany, and I used it because I can work. I didn't need anything more: only the passport. Last time I used it I was in America, and I don't have vizum on a Czech passport."

In other words you can travel around the world on a German passport - on an EU passport - without having to apply for the visa that you would need with a Czech passport?

LK: "That's right."

Do you feel comfortable with it though? You're a Czech. Do you feel comfortable travelling on a German passport?

LK: "Yes, why not. I don't have a problem with it."

The region's Prussian legacy is strongly in evidence even today. The Czechs of Hlucin still call themselves "Prajzaci" - Prussians - and sometimes use the word "Reich" when referring to Germany. Prajzaci claim they're more industrious and better-organised than other Czechs - villages tend to be tidier than elsewhere in the country and a neat, well-kept garden is the pride of every home. For many people from Hlucin - once citizens of the Reich, now citizens of the European Union - old habits die hard.

Crossing borders on the way to the Holy Land: Did Richard the Lionheart mix with the Magyars?
2.1.2004 - Petra Hajdu

A walrus ivory cross from the 12th century, is opening up a new chapter in both British and Hungarian history. The relic, which belonged to Richard I. was found in Hungary - suggesting that Richard the Lionheart spent some time in the country. If proven - the cross will help historians fill in some blanks on the travels of the legendary crusader. Howard Stevens is a former defence attache at the British Embassy in Budapest and he's been busy tracking down King and Cross. He's speaking to Petra Hajdu of Radio Budapest...

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Crossover cuisine - dining on the Slovene-Croat border
2.1.2004 - Ksenija Samardzija-Matul

One of the leftover disputes from the collapse of the former Yugoslavia is the precise location of the border between Slovenia and Croatia. Talks on resolving that dispute have been held in a restaurant - which just happens to sit on top of the border. Aperitif in Slovenia - Coffee in Croatia.

Usually good food and service as well as a nice atmosphere are the main reasons to visit a restaurant - or maybe a friend's recommendation - but my decision to visit the restaurant Kalin was based on its unique location. It is located on the international border between Slovenia and Croatia near the border crossing Obreje-Bregana.

I must admit I was surprised to reach the restaurant without crossing the border. Coming from the Slovene side, you don't even see the border crossing: the only way you know you are near an international border crossing is the traffic sign denoting the border. The family-run restaurant is an area where one can cross freely the Slovene-Croatian border without showing one's passport or being hindered in any way.

The restaurant is registered in Slovenia and the major part of the restaurant lies on the Slovenian side, but guests from both sides of the border are frequent customers. In the months of July and August however the restaurant opens at 5 o'clock in the afternoon because guests are rare in the summer months. So I entered the restaurant and was surprised to find it almost empty. But a very friendly waitress waited on me and was willing to answer my questions:

How would you describe working in this unique environment?

"It is interesting to work here because the Croatian elite is coming to our restaurant, politicians, actors, singers, there is always something happening it is interesting to get to know new people."

What is the guests' reaction to the fact that the restaurant is situated at the Slovene-Croatian border?

"Before the border between Slovenia and Croatia was established it was easier I must admit some of the guests that used to visit our restaurant don't come any more due to the border. They simply forget their identity cards and so they are not allowed to enter Slovenia and visit us. The reactions are mostly negative, because of the control at the border crossing."

How would you describe the relations between the inhabitants of the border region?

"People react differently to the situation. Some of the inhabitants have a realistic view on things others react strangely. Compared to Croatia, Slovenia is a small country. But in general I would say we have successfully adjusted to the new situation."

After our little chat Mitra Bajs, the friendly waitress, showed me around. It is really easy for the guests to find out whether you are on the Slovene or the Croatian side of the border because the border is marked by a line on the walls of the restaurant. You enter the restaurant on the Slovene side and if you turn right and walk a few metres you can drink your coffee in Croatia - of course without showing your passport. Weddings also take place on the Croatian side of the border in their big hall, all the rest of the restaurant, the kitchen, toilets, and another big room are on the Slovene side.

You mentioned that politicians from both sides of the border visit the restaurant. Will the tensions between Slovenia and Croatia ease in the near future or are you sceptical that a satisfying solution will ever be found?

"Well the last time Lojze Peterle and Croatian Foreign minister Tonino Picula were here for a meeting and the athmosphere was good, so I think everything will turn out well, both sides just need time."

Were any details of the meeting revealed any kind of progress?

"No, we were just asked how we live at the border what kind of problems we face in every day life, other than that no concrete solutions were given."

That's the story of the restaurant Kalin and the story of the Slovene-Croatian relation, which is once again marked by tensions due to Croatia's intention to proclaim an exclusive economic zone in the Adriatic. Is Mitra Bajs right when she says that everything will turn out fine? Well it would be nice.

Duty free shopping on the Danube
2.1.2004 - Oxana Ferjencikova

We head with Oxana Ferjencikova to the border between Slovakia and Austria, for a spot of duty free shopping with a difference....

I am aboard a ferry moored at the village of Devin, on the left bank of the Danube. We are heading for the Austrian border town of Hainburg, just a few km away from here, on the other side of the river. There are about 90 fellow passengers - a few Austrians, the rest are Slovaks. Some even brought their bikes with them. However, for most of the passengers the main purpose of taking the ferry is to pop into the duty free shop on the lower deck. Right after boarding, about 20 passengers are already queuing in front of the shop, which is still closed.

A crew: "Today it's not so packed because it's a workday but on weekends the ferry is sometimes so crowded that we must bring it to a stop it in the middle of the voyage until everybody finishes their shopping. When we reach the harbour we have to close the shop since we are off the duty free zone."

I can see a wide age range of people: from young to elder, singles and families. Now we are starting to move upstream. The shop opens and fills up with impatient shoppers, who have been waiting in line. Those who descended from the upper deck join them.

A Slovak passenger: "So far we have been on this ferry probably 10 times. It's an excellent idea. We like it because we can buy cheap cigarettes for my husband, who is a heavy smoker. Today for the first time we decided to take our bikes with us and make a small trip on the cycle paths around Hainburg."

Checking the prices, one must admit it's a bargain. They are 30 to 50 percent lower than in Slovak shops. I am glimpsing into people's baskets and can see mainly cartons of cigarettes and bottles of hard spirits. Although, we still have not reached Hainburg, almost everybody aboard is carrying a duty free plastic bag in their hands, there are only a few without.

A Czech passenger: "It's a trip. I am a tourist from the Czech Republic. I would like to see some new places close to Bratislava like Devin and Hainburg. Here in the shop, I am only curious about what they have got. Just looking around."

After 40 minutes of the picturesque voyage, the ferry halts and ties up. About half of the passengers are debarking in the harbour. On this hot August day, they will either pedal on a dyke along the Danube or visit the nearby ancient Roman settlement of Carnuntum or just stroll down the calm streets of Hainburg. An Austrian customs officer is approaching the ferry. He opens a parasol on a narrow footbridge and starts stamping passports. The procedure is fast and smooth. Then comes the passport control for those boarding en route to Devin. Newcomers are once again mainly Slovak, this time mostly families with small children and some pensioners. They are joining those who remained on the ferry. I notice a small group of Austrians. They all have bikes with them.

An Austrian: "I am first time on this boat. We are going on a 60 km bicycle trip."

Now the boat sets out for a shorter downstream voyage. The crew again opens the duty free shop but this time only a few people are interested. Due to the fast water current, the ruins of Devin castle, built on a rock, suddenly appear around a bend in the river. The double-decked ferry with the capacity of 250 people started its operation 3 years ago. A return ticket costs only 1 EUR if bought in Devin and 4 EUR if bought in Hainburg. Since the expenses are not covered by the ticket sales, the company, which owns the ferry, makes its profit from the duty free shop revenue. The boat runs from April until November and makes 5 round trips a day. The Slovak crew is polite, helpful, speaks fluent German and some English. Nevertheless, next May, when Slovakia enters the European Union, the duty free cruises will cease. According to a company representative, even though they will lose a big portion of revenue from the shop, they are not considering cancelling the service. He hopes the number of tourists will take the place of the shoppers and perhaps even be augmented since they will be coming not only from the neighbouring countries but also from more distant places.